Belting

Oooh, the cool northern winds have us layering vests, t-shirts, jumpers and coats to Michelin man proportions. Those of you whose jogging and gym routine was unflinching during the summer must now suffer the bloated silhouette of autumn winter. No revealing cottons or silks now; that wind from the north has spoilt your chances of parading the rippling pecs and strong biceps procured from the excessive hours pumping iron. And thank God!

The onset of the cooler months is welcomed for those, like me, whose belly is soft and squishy, their pecs more breast-like and derriere a sagging mess; the big loose tops of summer were relied upon, but we can now disguise the unexercised physique with layers of soothing, warming fabric. The more the merrier.


However we too are aware of the swollen shape sported and must think of ways to give some definition. We may be porky but we're not obese, we can still squeeze our jelly into a 30/32 waist – it’s the muffin top that must be concealed.

Consider Armani's catwalk (Giorgio not Emporio) – quilted nylon jackets sporting leather belts positioned high above the waist, fitted but not tightly to give a slight cinch and hint of a waist whilst concealing the moobage and muffin top. The important factor here is the jacket, which must be concealing, but not excessively so, to achieve this elegant suggestion of shape, the fabric light and the quilting minimal. Remember, you live in the city, not the frozen tundra, so you can easily do without the Moncler. 

This technique can also be achieved to marvellous results with slim cardigans as seen also at Armani (again Giorgio, not Emporio), and with the quirky denim boiler suit from Kenzo. Again, the importance must lie in the fabric, which must be light enough to allow for gentle slimming pleats, and the shape (the achievement of elegant hints of a waist are what is here desired), of the garment must be comfortably tailored.

But for those of us, and here I count myself, who dream of the drama afforded by those strong gusts that blow along the Thames, conjuring ideas of watching ships set sail for new adventures then we have to look to Damir Doma. 

Excessive amounts of soft wool in excessive shapes gathered at the waist with matching broad belts or the several-times-wrapped leather belt created a dramatic yet poetic aesthetic. It inspires visions of gales billowing drapes, as if sailing along the pavements. It is drama, but done with a deft hand. One must not be play with colour to attain this poetry; sombre shades of black and grey will provide the perfect iambic pentameter. 

Similarly wonderful were the Gianfranco Ferré overcoats waisted with leather belts, gathering the heavy wool in happily awkward folds and leaving a train just aching to fly out from a momentous rolling wind. But again, the palette must be simple; monochrome tweeds and houndstooth will blend and warp to create graphic patterns.

So, now to the middle ground. We all need a little colour during the grey months and Ferragamo gave us that – neither flashy nor gaudy but tones of earth green, brown and navy blue. The most devastating green suede trench coat was tied twice at the waist with a brown leather belt and worn with matching brown boots, a look so beautiful I think I cried a little. We also received a heavy, navy ribbed-knit cardigan with a beige suede belt, and ruby-brown leather overcoat with matching belt. They are a beautiful evocation of autumn, precious shades that can't help make you smile and feel a little warmer despite the drop in temperature. They are never excessive, nor do they require a discerning eye; it is all very easy and simple; throw the coat or cardigan on, and as looking for the keys one ties the waist with the belt ever attached, and experimentation with colour or texture is more than welcomed depending on the occasion.


Who said belts were merely for holding up jeans – sling it high and put it on show and give yourself a waist.