KTZ

I can tolerate many things – acrid cologne applied with a pressure washer is painful yet tolerable; overcooked fish may erode my molars to a blunt Uluru but is tolerable; over-sung R&B ruins what can be a beautiful voice and song but Aguilera is tolerated. However, some things are plain, downright, out and out intolerable.

ITV costume dramas and their incessant adverts for shampoo ruin the mood of the Regency; dandruff on the collar obliterates the beauty of a Savile Row suit and Abercrombie and Fitch sends me into convulsions of dégoût. But poorly fitted clothes on the catwalk are a surefire ire maker.

The hours of researching and design, the expense of sampling, the blood, sweat and tears over the months spilled is wasted all because of poor fitting.

Now don't get me wrong, I love Kokon To Zai (KTZ). Their oversized tees are a dream and the vision of its owners is always a revelation but to see zips buckling, an inch gap at waists, and wrinkling leather had me prostrate in tears. The collection was fine (if a little too much of a Givenchy pastiche); black leather and gold foil is nothing new. When Tisci paraded it seasons ago my heart skipped a pleasant beat but here I simply raised my glasses in disbelief.

Was it disbelief or sadness? The sheer comprehension of a stylist allowing a model to strut the runway with an inch gap at waist is beyond me. Seeing zips buckle had me wanting to cry at what was a relatively nice black leather embossed dress. Both had me wanting to leap forward and yank the dress down or exchange the ridiculously thin model for one who eats meals.

Perhaps here is the problem. A squeamishly thin 18 year old has no shape, she can wear skinny jeans and Converse to death but she can't wear a dress that desperately needs curves. Dresses are always best on a woman. But this is fashion, youth obsessed, so all I ask, quite simply, is to fit to your models. Select models with a little more on them, not a size 14 but one who is more than hip bones and a gaunt face.

Or if all else fails, make the damn dress smaller!